Building parameters
Shape automatically changes the foundation perimeter, facade, roof area and waste factor.
m
Foundation options change depending on the structure type.
Manoperă mode DIY – materials only · Hire – materials + labour
Manoperă mode DIY – materials only · Hire – materials + labour
Manoperă mode DIY – materials only · Hire – materials + labour
%
A 10–15% contingency covers price changes, small changes, extra logistics and hidden works.
Stage-by-stage estimate
Cost total estimativ
lei/m²
Summary
Materiale
Manoperă
Rezervă
Approx. heated volume
Parameters
StageMaterialeManoperăTotallei/m²Manoperă lei/m²

How to read the result?

This is not a builder's commercial quote. It's an indicative estimate meant to help you understand which features of your house push the budget up the most.

What the model includes

The calculator uses geometry factors, energy-rating insulation add-ons, roof and facade area logic, utility connection scenarios, heating system choices, and a separate labour mode for each stage.

Shape

An L, U or complex shape increases the perimeter, facade, roof and waste, so a simple floor area alone isn't a good enough indicator.

Hire vs. DIY

If you choose "I'll do it myself", only materials are costed. If you choose "hire tradespeople", the market average labour rate is added.

Rezervă

The contingency is applied after the main stages, since real builds see costs rise from small changes, logistics and hidden works.

Frequently asked questions about house building costs

Short answers for anyone planning a self-build budget

The cost depends on floor area, structure, foundations, roof, energy rating, windows, facade, heating, utility connections and interior finish. That's why it's more accurate to look at a full stage-by-stage estimate rather than a single lei/m² figure.
Costs are usually driven up by a complex house shape, large facade and roof area, more expensive foundations, a higher energy rating, large glazed windows, a full interior fit-out, ground/air source heat pumps and hired labour.
No. This is an indicative house building cost calculator meant to compare scenarios and understand your budget structure. An exact quote requires an architectural and technical design, bills of quantities and builder quotes.
For the same floor area, a two-storey house can have a smaller foundation and roof area, but you gain an intermediate floor slab, a staircase and more complex junctions. A single-storey house is simpler to live in, but often needs a larger foundation and roof.
It's practical to budget at least a 10–15% contingency. It covers price changes, extra work, transport, design tweaks, small errors and hidden costs uncovered during the build.
Usually yes, because it needs better airtightness, thicker insulation, higher-spec windows, mechanical ventilation with heat recovery and efficient building services. However, such a house can have much lower heating bills afterwards.
The most common choices are piled foundations with a ground beam, strip foundations and raft (slab) foundations. The right choice depends on ground conditions, the structure, loads, the design and site conditions.
Bored piles are one type of piled foundation. "Piled" describes the general principle of transferring loads through piles, while "bored" describes piles formed by drilling a hole and filling it with concrete.
Screw piles aren't usually the first choice for a masonry house. They're more often used for lighter structures. A masonry house needs a structural engineer's assessment and a ground investigation.
A ground beam is a concrete or reinforced concrete beam that ties piles together into a single foundation system. The walls rest on it, and it spreads the loads more evenly across the piles.
Yes. A ground investigation helps choose the right foundation type and reduces the risk of overpaying or picking an unsuitable solution. It's especially important on weak, wet or uneven ground.
A timber frame or a simple masonry structure is often cheaper, but the final price depends on the design, materials, labour rates and finish level. Tipul structurii alone doesn't determine the whole cost.
A timber frame house can be faster to build and sometimes cheaper, but masonry is often chosen for its durability and solidity. You need to compare the specific project, not just the wall type.
The roof can significantly change the budget. A simple gable or mono-pitch roof is usually cheaper than a complex hip roof or one with many angles, rooflights, chimneys and junctions.
Yes, large glazed windows often add cost due to the window price itself, installation, structural solutions, heat loss control and managing solar overheating.
Interior finishing can make up a very large share of the budget. The difference between a partial finish, a full fit-out and a premium finish can be bigger than the difference between foundation or roof choices.
Only if you have the time, skills and understand the technique involved. DIY work reduces labour cost, but mistakes can end up costing more than what you saved.
A main contractor is more convenient when you want a single point of responsibility and a clearer process. Individual tradespeople can be cheaper, but more coordination, oversight and risk falls on you as the client.
Yes, you can tick the electricity connection, a borehole and a wastewater treatment plant. The real cost depends on distances, network operator conditions, the ground, the plot location and the equipment chosen.
Common reasons include design changes, overlooked details, transport, price changes, extra work, site conditions and too small a contingency.

Calculating house building costs – what to consider

A house building cost calculator helps you get a rough idea of how much a self-build house might cost in the UK. It's useful for planning your budget and comparing different structure types, foundation options, roof coverings, heating systems and finish levels.

One of the most common questions is how much it costs to build a house. There's no exact answer without a full design, because the cost isn't determined by floor area alone. The shape of the house, number of storeys, wall structure, foundation type, roof complexity, energy rating, windows, engineering, interior finish and external works all matter a great deal.

A house with a simple shape usually costs less, because it needs fewer complex junctions, less facade area, fewer roof transitions and simpler site logistics. L-shaped, U-shaped or otherwise complex volumes look more interesting, but often push up the cost of foundations, facade, roof and insulation work.

When budgeting for a build, it's important to separate material cost from labour cost. If you plan to do some of the work yourself, the budget can shrink, but you need to weigh up your time, tools, the risk of mistakes and warranty considerations.

This calculator is not an official builder's quote. It's meant for initial analysis: to understand which choices change the final price the most, and how much of the total is made up by the structure, engineering, finishing and the contingency reserve.